Monday, June 9, 2008

Sanjusangendo and Nanzenji

Sanjusangendo is the temple of 1001 statues of the 1000-armed Kannon, deity of mercy. I'm being a little coy about gender here, because usually Kannon seems to be female. Here, however, all the faces have mustaches, and there are no feminine curves in evidence. As was true in most of the famous temples, we couldn't take pictures inside, so I had to buy the book. Here are some exterior views.

I was particularly taken with this sign that asks "Are you happy?" and proceeds to let you know how to obtain peace and prosperity for yourself and your loved ones. Another sign, next to the one that extolled the healing powers of the "midnight crying well," was a warning that the water was not safe for drinking.














Entering the Nanzenji complex, we first stopped at a sub-temple called Tenju-an, where we strolled through the exquisite gardens.


Along the road leading up to the main temple, I was very taken by the ancient drainage ditch, traversed periodically with more recently-installed, but now rusty, pipes.

Eager to see the waterfall under which Zen monks stand in mid-winter in search of enlightenment, we climbed up the well-marked trail. A sheaf of walking sticks were ready to assist anyone who needed a little help, and a well-used broom attested to the hospitality extended to pilgrims.













We passed many small Shinto shrines and fountains, inviting anyone who was thirsty to stop and drink. As we reached the waterfall, we heard a rumble of thunder.

We hurried down the trail as best we could, but were soaked by the drenching rain. With others who had been caught in the storm, we huddled under the aquaduct.




Later, we wandered the quiet halls of Nanzen-ji. A gentle rain continued to fall as I sat resting my tired legs on the veranda, gazing gratefully at the serene Zen garden.